Paris Day 3—lasting impressions

For my last half-day in Paris, I am visiting Montmartre for a walking tour.  I wake up later than planned—staying up into the wee hours blogging has taken a toll.  I blog with total dedication—if you are gonna do it, you gotta do it right. 

I arrive at Anvers metro station at 9:30a, Nina is already waiting for me.  She is wearing a black top with the most adorable Parisian skirt.  I, on the other hand, being much more conservative in my choice of clothing, wore a boring one-color dress.  We head up the hilly streets of Montmartre toward Basilique du Sacre-Coeur.  After a few minutes, the stark white basilica peaks out from behind lush foliage.  The Sacre-Coeur, along with other white residential buildings and shops lining the winding cobble stone roads, makes Montmartre sparkle in the sunlight.  Atop the Notre-Dame yesterday, I could easily point it out without having visited here. 

We continue upward, jumping away from aggressive merchants trying to sell us bracelets (one man actually grabs Nina’s wrist to put one on her…yeesh, good thing she reacts quickly).  At the base of the basilica, we snap a photo in front of the beautiful fountains, then turn around to admire the panoramic view of Paris.  Nina points out several landmarks:  Le Centre Pompidou, Arc de Triomphe, Hotel de Ville… I recognize them too—how exciting!

We then take a quick tour inside the basilica.  No photography allowed here, so we stop by the gift shop and I purchase a prayer card with some of the paintings printed on it.  For the rest of the time, we stroll leisurely in the neighborhoods.  Today is very relaxing, especially in this area away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Paris.  Montmartre is known for its street artists.  We also see tons of outdoor cafes.  I wonder what it’s like to live here.  Do the residents here need vacations when their lives are so relaxing 24-7?

The area is small, but the roads are not on a grid system.  We try to find the Dali museum but lose our way.  I snap photos like a madwoman, trying to capture the beauty of Paris for my own record.

I’m traveling to Germany in the afternoon, and Nina kindly offers to take me to the train station.  For that I am very grateful—my ticket is in German and train info at the station are in French.  But of course we stop by a bakery first for more croissants.  We chit chat at the station for a while—she has lots of funny stories, the conversation flows so easily.  Then it was time to say goodbye.  I invite Nina and her husband to visit me in the U.S., and I hope they do.  They definitely don’t have Mama Mia or Popeye’s in Paris.  I wonder if they would be appalled by the unhealthy food that Americans love so much.

Nina and I hug one more time.  I hope I see her again soon.  German trains really do run on time.  At 13:09, the train promptly begins moving.  I am sad to leave Paris so soon, but excited for the next part of my journey.  Frankfurt, look out, you’ve got tough competition in vying to be my most favorite city. 

Farewell, Paris, I hope to come back soon!

Paris Day 2—these lights will inspire you

Day 2, I wake up without an alarm.  It feels great. I throw on my new dress that I bought yesterday and head downstairs for a large breakfast of 3 croissants and 2 cups of coffee.  All the walking has turned my metabolism into that of a hippo.  Today, I am all on my own, as Nina is busy taking her driving lesson.  For the most part, I fare ok.  But asking strangers to take pictures of me is quite tricky.  Everyone is willing, but few are skilled.  I try to stick to those carrying obscenely large DSLRs, they seem to know what they are doing.

My first stop is Hotel de Ville—Paris City Hall.  It’s big.  Impressive.  Certainly the best of city halls I’ve seen.  I wonder what goes on in the minds of city employees when then go to work each morning.  Do they know how lucky they are to be in such a marvelous environment?

Next I head to Notre-Dame, a majestic cathedral sitting on the Seine river bank.  The line to go inside is long, but it’s sunny with a breeze, so I don’t mind reading Frommer’s while waiting, and once in a while looking up to admire the detailed artwork on the stone walls. 

An hour later, I start to feel it was a mistake not going to the bathroom first.  Finally, after 90 minutes of standing in line, I reach the entrance and receive a visitor’s guide.  Oh, “no bathrooms inside.”  Friends, learn from my mistake.  On the climb to the top, the narrow spiral stone staircase reminds me that the cathedral is nearly 800 years old.  The steps are steep and uneven.  Upon reaching the chimera gallery, my legs feel weak.  Atop the cathedral, the view of Paris is magnificent.  On a clear day like this, one can easily point out the most recognizable landmarks of the city.  A number of gargoyles line the edges of the roof.  These mythical creatures are truly works of art.  Their bodies engage in different activities, and their faces are expressive.  The most famous one, “stryga,” seems to be in deep thought while looking into the distance, as if he is guarding the city.

The 13-ton Great Bell, named Emmanuel, and made famous by Victor Hugo’s Quasimodo, hangs in the South Tower.  Speaking of bells, has anyone seen the Liberty Bell—our proud symbol of American freedom?  That tiny little thing had a crack since day 1, and was only rung once ever… Whereas Emmanuel was cast in the 17th century and is operational to this date. 

Back to the gargoyles…this one is eating grapes!! And one more photo of the view.

 

Inside the cathedral, religious music is playing softly.  I try to figure out what the flying buttresses are, but cannot figure it out.  The place feels peaceful, calming, and holy.  I sit in the worship area for a while, soaking in the serenity.  In the darkness, candle flames dance, and light from outside shines through the rose windows.  Beautiful.

In the garden behind the cathedral, there is an outdoor concert.  I sit in the shade and catch up on post card writing while enjoying the music, and then eat a yummy egg and cheese crepe.  Yes, life is wonderful.

 

For the rest of the afternoon, I stroll along the Seine River heading west, stopping at small shops here and there to look at all the things I want to buy but can’t because they are too heavy.  Alas. 

By 6p.m. I reach Musee du Lourve.  I immediately go see the two most famous ladies of the Lourve, Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo.  Both galleries are full of huge crowds.  It’s hard to get close for a photo, but I manage.

While admiring the Mona Lisa, a Canadian gentleman chats me up.  A few more paintings later, he invites me to dinner.  Flattering, but obviously I politely decline for safety reasons.  Plus he said the Mona Lisa was unimpressive.  Ugh, no one disses my girl Mona like that ok?  Another personal favorite of mine is the Winged Victory.  Headless, but proudly standing near the entrance to the Denon gallery.

The Lourve is huge and overwhelming, and displays extraordinary art pieces and exquisite material possessions.  Every corner I turn, there is another world famous masterpiece.  And the pinnacle of wealth is displayed in Napoleon’s apartment.  I am reminded of the Chinese term, 富丽堂皇, which rolls wealth, beauty, and class/royalty all into one word.  By this time, my camera is running low on power, so I don’t have many photos.  Here is a hallway from Napoleon’s crib.

At 9p.m., my feet can hardly move another step, I want to leave.  But Mona Lisa calls me back to her.  This time, the crowd has thinned out.  I spend 25 minutes with her.  In the gallery where she resides, there are huge and elaborate paintings.  In fact, she is one of the smallest paintings in the room.  But this lady gets her own wall and commands attention like no other.  I walk back and forth, making a half circle in front of her.  Her eyes follow me.  Her clothes are simple, yet something about her posture exudes elegance.  And her smile—one of the biggest mysteries of the art world—she seems to be hiding something behind that smile.  I can’t figure it out.  We stare at each other until the guards clear out the room.  She is still smiling, I smile back.  If she were real and my contemporary, perhaps we could be good girlfriends.

By now it’s 10p.m. and getting dark.  Though I’d like to see the Eiffel Tower at night, my feet simply would not allow it.  I head back and get dinner at the same neighborhood restaurant.  Tonight I try the green pea soup and pork dish.  Again, delicious. 

At the end of my second day in Paris, I am even more grateful to be here.  The culture here is so rich—full of inspirations.  I can’t wait to return for another visit.

Bonjour from Paris – what they say about the French is only half true

I fly into CDG at 8a.m., excited and scared.  Excited because I’ve always wanted to see Paris and I finally get the chance; scared because my French vocabulary consists of two words—“bonjour” and “merci.”  Weeks ago, I signed up for a French travel crash course, but never had the time to do it.  So here I am, thrown into a foreign land not speaking a word of its language—the last time I had to do this, I was only 13, and I didn’t have to navigate to the hotel by myself!

Going through customs took only 5 minutes.  Is this for real?  I check the stamp on my passport again and realize that I really am in France!  I approach the train ticket office with some hesitation.  Many have said that the French are snobbish about speaking French and only French.  But I am immediately put at ease by a young woman with a warm smile.  I point out on a map where I want to go, because embarrassingly, I can’t pronounce the name of the station.  Fortunately, her English is fluent and she’s more than willing to speak it. 

I reach my hotel by 10, an hour ahead of schedule.  Since I planned to meet my Parisian friend, Nina, at the metro station near my hotel at 11, I decide to check out the neighborhood.  I walk by a cute flower shop, sip on a cup of cafe au lait while reading a travel guide.  Then for my walk to the metro, I grab a croissant from the unassuming corner bakery though I ate breakfast not long ago.  As soon as I finish the croissant, I realize it was a mistake not buying 3.  Slightly crispy on the outside, light fluffy and buttery on the inside—it was heavenly!  Already, my day is going splendidly well.  Of course the weather is perfect too, sunny in the 70s with few clouds.

I meet up with Nina, and we head out to do all the touristy things.  First stop: Eiffel Tower.  And it is magnificent.  We walk all the way around and take many photos from many angles.  There it is, THE symbol of Paris, sitting against a backdrop of perfectly blue skies.  The wait to climb up the tower is over an hour, so I opt to do it tomorrow. 

Next, we metro over to the Arc de Triomphe.  There it is, amidst busy traffic, a tribute to triumph standing tall and proud since Napoleon’s days.  As we walk around it, I spot a hot orange Lamborghini driving by—what a blend of the ancient and the modern.

 

We stroll along the Champs Elysses, passing many posh stores, and eventually reach Musee du Louvre.  It’s closed on Tuesdays, but of course the gallery halls from the outside are architectural wonders entirely on their own.  And if you’ve read Dan Brown’s Da Vinci Code, the pyramids are even more fascinating.

 

Our leisurely stroll continues eastward and ends at Le Centre Pompidou, a museum of modern art. We rest our tired feet (7 hours of walking!) in a cute gelato shop nearby.

 

We get ready to head back to my hotel.  But of course I first stop by a shop and pick up a cute dress—I AM in Paris, it’s practically a required activity in this fashion mecca.  Back at the hotel, Nina and I rehydrate and chat about all kinds of things—living, laughing, loving… (harharhar, title of my blog, get it?) Suddenly we realize the sun is setting, and it’s nearly 10p.m.!  Sadly Nina must head back home.  I walk her to the metro stop, then stop by the restaurant half a block from my hotel. 

It’s a cute little place that offers a set menu.  I walk in and am greeted by an enthusiastic waiter, who insists to seat me in the center of the restaurant at a table set for 6.  Looking around, I see a party of 10 friends, and a few tables of couples scattered around the restaurant.  Can I just hide in a corner?  I plead. No no, he insists that I sit at this large and comfortable table.  Ok—party of one in the city of love, I can do this.  I order my items per Nina’s suggestion: ratatouille glacee et ceuf poche, and pave de saumon roti au miel, with a glass of chardonnay.  The appetizer ratatouille comes quickly with an entire basket of assorted breads—wow, so generous!  I love bread and always feel a bit embarrassed when I have to ask for more.  Now I can eat to my heart’s carbohydrate content.  The ratatouille is served cold, to my surprise, but has a wonderful flavor to it.  Then the salmon comes, and I am pleasantly surprised!  For a little restaurant tucked away from the glitzy parts of Paris, I expected so-so food.  But this salmon—it melts in my mouth, and is delicately flavored.  The fish tastes very fresh.  A hint of sweetness compliments the savory couscous.  I am impressed!  My total bill comes to only 15 euros.  Even more amazing!

 

With a satisfied and happy belly, I end my first day in Paris with total admiration for this city full of culture, history, fashion, amazing cuisine, and yes, really nice people.

I’m allowed one gripe—the shower in my room is incredibly small.  I have to crouch down to fit under the shower head, and keep bumping into the faucet handle, causing the water to go from incredibly hot to extremely cold one minute to the next.  I feel like an ogre, but a clean ogre. 

I can’t wait to discover more of this city on day 2.  Stay tuned!